We arrived late today into Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany. We checked into our hotel, which closely resembles a 1970's ski chalet and is owned by the craziest lady in Bavaria – there's a shrine to Elvis in the stairwell and a clown hanging from a swing over our bed. Our first order of business was driving into the Alpine playground to watch fog settle in around crags and cows. It was a peaceful evening; the only noise was jangling cow bells.